Archive for July, 2009

Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

Chogan (Algonquin meaning "Blackbird"

Derrick R. Cruz of Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons offers Hoyle readers insight into the creative process behind Cruz’s hauntingly beautiful art. Mr. Cruz also offers sneak peak images from his “Theft of Light” Collection.

Hoyle: What’s your workshop like?

Cruz: Its in the L.E.S. of New York City. Its my escape. Its a place full of raw materials and tools for me to tinker with until I’m able to imbue objects with what’s on my mind. A constantly evolving disaster of paper, books, bones, wood, saws, dust and a broom.

Havataneo (Cheyenne meaning "Hairy Rope")Hoyle: In regards to your work, the prodigal aspect is evident. Would you identify yourself as a black sheep at all?

Cruz: Is “prodigal” evident? I feel like you’d have to know me a little better before you can say that. Order me a good glass of scotch and I’ll show you a realtime example of prodigious tendencies. The “black sheep” part I find unavoidable, its also a positive creative catalyst for me.

Hoyle: What’s your favorite object?

Cruz: An earth-clay figurine of a Taino Indian my father and I purchased near a river in Puerto Rico. Other than that, my vacuum tube stereo.

Hoyle: What would you like to find in a shipwreck?

Cruz: Bones and letters.

Hoyle: What was your favorite book growing up?

Cruz: Damian by Herman Hesse. Before that it was Junglebook and a little illustrated book of Hiawatha that came with vinyl 45.

Hoyle: In a previous interview you reference Broyard who describes a New York culture that supports black sheep. What would you say about the power of the underdog?

Nascha (Navajo meaning "Owl")Cruz: Its not a dog, its a sheep. Not an underdog, but one that needs to find an alternate road to satisfaction. Its an illusory correlation often made between success or economic status and the mind of the creative outsider. Outside the pre-drawn circle one can sometimes see connections that are not evident from the inside. This is good fodder for my work.

Hoyle: Can we give our readers a glimpse of what they can expect to see from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons next?

Cruz: The new collections is titled “Theft of Light.” There’s a jackal running around in our midsts with the Sun in a bag.

Hoyle: More from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons here

Tie – Clipped

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

Tie- Paige

Photo Credit: oaknyc.com

Tie Clips are accessories that fix one’s tie to one’s shirt panel. According to Hoyle, tie clips may be gold or silver, not bejeweled. A tie clip will ensure that your tie hangs straight and remains kept out of your soup. According to Antongiavanni, you should never let the clip sit horizontally (this bisects the body). Instead, your tie clips should be angled downward slightly.

Fact Credit: The Suit, Nicholas Antongiavanni, p 161.

Posted In: ACCESSORIES, Ties

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Soda Pop

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009
Shades Of Greige Peacoat

Shades of Greige- Black Spring Peacoat

Photo Credit: oaknyc.com

Posted In: MENSWEAR

French Military Hats 1914

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009

French Military Hats 1914

Photo Credit: Military Fashion, John Mollo, 1972, p. 140

From Cannabis to Canvas

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009

Billykirk Travel BagCanvas was originally made using hemp yarns, deriving its name from the ‘Vulgar Latin’ word cannapaceus (made of hemp). ‘Canvas’ now describes heavy and coarsely woven cotton fabric. The words ‘duck’ and ‘canvas’ are used interchangeably.

“Before the Industrial Revolution, hemp was a popular fiber because it is strong and grows quickly; it produces 250% more fiber than cotton … when grown on the same land.” That’s a lot of bags.

Fact Credit: Dressing The Man, Alan Flusser, p. 281; Wikipedia

Image Credit: billykirk.com

Posted In: ACCESSORIES, HISTORY

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Shop- New York City

Monday, July 13th, 2009

Opening Ceremony

Posted In: SHOP

Tags: ,

Umbrellas and Shady Dealings

Friday, July 10th, 2009

Oak

The word umbrella is derived from the Latin word umbra meaning shade or shadow. Umbrellas have been used in many shady dealings over the years:

The story of an umbrella developed by the KGB here

An umbrella developed for self defense here 

In 1901, two women attacked a policeman during a cigar factory strike on NY’s Canal Street. The girls struck an officer Flynn on the head with umbrellas repeatedly, and pulled on his coat tails until the jacket gave way and was ripped from his back. Luckily, no one was seriously hurt during the incident.

Fact Credit: Wikipedia; New York Times

Image Credit: OAK

Seeing Red

Thursday, July 9th, 2009
The Hill-Side

Photo Credit: thehill-side.com

English football teams wearing red shirts are champions more often than teams wearing other colors (Sports Science). In addition, Nature Magazine found that red is consistently associated with a higher probability of winning across a range of sports. In non-human species, male dominance is increased by attaching red stimuli. Maybe this is why you often see politicians sporting red ties?

Fact Credit: J Sports Sci. 2008 Apr; 26(6): 577-82.; Nature. 2005 May 19; 435 (7040): 293

The term “Red Tie Affair” refers to a charity gala or event. According to Hoyle, the term “Red Tie” should not be taken literally, as these events fall under black tie dress code.

Fact Credit: www.askdeb.com

 

Posted In: Ties

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Do Khakis Need To Be Khaki?

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

MENLOOK8The word “Khaki” originates from Hindi and means “earth-colored” or “dust-colored”.  The word is used to describe both fabric color and fabric material. Khaki fabric is made from closely twilled linen or cotton.

In the 1950s khakis increased in popularity and expanded beyond the initial military use. Military khakis are “Multani Mitti” color, meaning mud of Multan. Since the 1950s, the word “khaki” has been used to describe tan cotton twill pants.

Today, khakis come in a variety of colors and shades (including blue) and the term khaki is often used to describe a particular pant style.

Fact Credit: Wikipedia

Photo credit: unisnewyork.com

Posted In: PANTS

Tags: ,

Button-Up, Button-Down

Monday, July 6th, 2009

Picture 6

The term “Button-down” is often used to describe a shirt generally. Originally the term described a shirt with a collar that buttoned down.  Buttoning the collar points to the shirt originated when English polo players wanted to stop their shirt collars from flapping in their faces.  

Post World War II, the button-down shirt, alongside cardovan shoes and the sack suit became essential elements of the American Ivy League dress.

According to Hoyle, button up your button down with a sport coat or a tweed, and feel free to skip the tie.

Fact Credit: Wikipedia and Nicholas Antongiavanni, The Suit, p. 102 

Photo Credit: Barbour.com

Posted In: SHIRTS