Archive for the ‘INTERVIEWS’ Category
Q & A with Nom de Guerre
Images credit: nomdeguerre.net
The Nome de Guerre collective was founded with the idea that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. According to Nom de Guerre “collective consciousness . . . is superior to that of the individual ego.” According to Hoyle, Nom de Guerre functions as a paragon of menswear style.
Hoyle: Your Lookbook images are amazing- is there anything you keep in mind when creating them?
N. D. G.: Each season we are very fortunate to work with a team that makes the vision possible. For Fall / Winter 2009, the idea was to create a feeling of being in a vast Arctic space and Erik Swain executed that idea perfectly. Daniel Peddle’s casting also furthered the idea, so that we had guys that could very legitimately be in that setting.
Hoyle: How did you find your store location? It has such a unique history.
N. D. G.: We found the store location through word of mouth; we like working that way and always try to remain open to synchronicity in both the everyday tasks as well as the bigger ideas that we execute.
Hoyle: Do you feel that Nom de Guerre runs differently than other design or fashion firms?
N. D. G.: Yes, the way that we work is very unusual. We work more nomadically and take full advantage of communication technology. This sets us free from having an office and allows us to design the collection anywhere.
Hoyle: What is the ideal male uniform?
N. D. G.: It would really depend on the occasion, but for multi-function use, we think that it would be a very sturdy pair of trousers, a button-front shirt worn with a necktie, and a thick hoodie.
Hoyle: Can we give readers any news on what’s to come with Nom de Guerre?
N. D. G.: Spring / Summer 2010 is based on the Algerian war and is also influenced by film and literature of the period. This collection mixes civilian and military references to suggest the civilian involvement in the war itself, and additionally, resulting from the influence of ideas such as, montage of New Wave cinema; archival news reels; and specifically the films of Chris Marker.
Images credits: nomdeguerre.net ; movie credit: Chris Marker
Jody Rogac Through Her Own Lense
Brooklyn based photographer Jody Rogac takes portraits that have a cool yet regal feeling. Recently for City Mag, Jody photographed American menswear greats including Scott Sternberg, Robert Geller, and Patrick Ervell.
Hoyle: Do you approach fashion photography any differently than your other portraits?
Rogac: Not really. I’m more interested in the person than the clothes. When I shoot fashion I work as if I’m shooting portraits.
Hoyle: Were you ever given any photography advice that resonated with you?
Rogac: Not personally, but I read a quote in a biography once that was something like, “you have to take the bad photos in order to take the good ones”. I think this is so true — when I shoot a roll that I’m not very happy with I try to learn from it to make future photo sessions better.
Hoyle: Was your recent shoot for City Mag any different than other shoots?
Rogac: It was a pretty standard shoot. I got to meet and photograph some really interesting people, and the vibe was quite melo and relaxed.
Hoyle: What would you like to see more of in fashion magazines in terms of imagery?
Rogac: That’s tough, fashion photography really has no limits and there are so many different imagery styles in mags right now. I really enjoy looking through magazines and being surprised.
Hoyle: In portraits, is it ever the case that your favorite image of a subject isn’t necessarily the most flattering image of the subject?
Rogac: I don’t think so. When I edit my portraits I try to choose shots where the subject looks the most like themselves, and these are usually the most flattering photos naturally.
Hoyle: For more of Jody Rogac’s work, go to jodyrogac.com
Images: Jody Rogac and Scott Sternberg respectively. All Images taken by and property of Jody Rogac.
Q&A with Greg Minnig of Deth Killers
Image credit: deskiraz.com
Greg Minnig and his business partner Jenn Dixon of Deth Killers have attracted the attention of magazines from Nylon to The New York Times. Deth Killers brand clothing have graced the bodies of Kate Moss, Jake Gyllenhaal, Mickey Rourke, and David Bowie. You can see the latest Deth Killers work here. This interview shows that often the tougher a guy looks…the more generous.
Hoyle: Were you given a lot of direction when asked to design for David Bowie?
Minnig: I don’t know, ask Jenn. I think he just liked our aesthetic and would have probably liked whatever we made for him, but we certainly went into it knowing the bar was about as high as it could get so we didn’t hold anything back….
Hoyle: Can one portray toughness through clothes?
Q & A with Roxana of Nerd Boyfriend
Hoyle interviews Roxana, the mastermind behind blog Nerd Boyfriend.
Hoyle: Do have a boyfriend and is he nerdy?
Roxana: He does fit into some of more flattering definitions of nerdy. He also goes by the name lonelysandwich, so there’s that.
Hoyle: Do you start with the photograph? How does that process work?
Roxana: I do start with the photograph, then I go through the inventory of my 200+ list of online stores and men’s lines to try to find possible matches.
Hoyle: How did you get interested in menswear?
Roxana: I guess it would have to be Jim Henson. His style reflects his humility and enthusiasm for his craft. Turtlenecks, cords, tweed, oxfords, genius. He made me realize that I admire the fashion sense of my heroes as much as their talent.
Hoyle: How would you describe your personal style?
Roxana: Thrift store optimistic.
Hoyle: Where do you find most of your inspiration?
Roxana: I have to give credit to men’s fashion blogs; selectism, a continuous lean, hyrcollective and kempt, the moment, mensrag. They keep me up to date and I really just match things up.
*Editor’s note: video courtesy of Roxana’s boyfriend Adam of Put this On and You Look Nice Today
Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons
Derrick R. Cruz of Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons offers Hoyle readers insight into the creative process behind Cruz’s hauntingly beautiful art. Mr. Cruz also offers sneak peak images from his “Theft of Light” Collection.
Hoyle: What’s your workshop like?
Cruz: Its in the L.E.S. of New York City. Its my escape. Its a place full of raw materials and tools for me to tinker with until I’m able to imbue objects with what’s on my mind. A constantly evolving disaster of paper, books, bones, wood, saws, dust and a broom.
Hoyle: In regards to your work, the prodigal aspect is evident. Would you identify yourself as a black sheep at all?
Cruz: Is “prodigal” evident? I feel like you’d have to know me a little better before you can say that. Order me a good glass of scotch and I’ll show you a realtime example of prodigious tendencies. The “black sheep” part I find unavoidable, its also a positive creative catalyst for me.
Hoyle: What’s your favorite object?
Cruz: An earth-clay figurine of a Taino Indian my father and I purchased near a river in Puerto Rico. Other than that, my vacuum tube stereo.
Hoyle: What would you like to find in a shipwreck?
Cruz: Bones and letters.
Hoyle: What was your favorite book growing up?
Cruz: Damian by Herman Hesse. Before that it was Junglebook and a little illustrated book of Hiawatha that came with vinyl 45.
Hoyle: In a previous interview you reference Broyard who describes a New York culture that supports black sheep. What would you say about the power of the underdog?
Cruz: Its not a dog, its a sheep. Not an underdog, but one that needs to find an alternate road to satisfaction. Its an illusory correlation often made between success or economic status and the mind of the creative outsider. Outside the pre-drawn circle one can sometimes see connections that are not evident from the inside. This is good fodder for my work.
Hoyle: Can we give our readers a glimpse of what they can expect to see from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons next?
Cruz: The new collections is titled “Theft of Light.” There’s a jackal running around in our midsts with the Sun in a bag.
Hoyle: More from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons here
Q & A With Eunice Lee…and fall sneak peek!
According to Hoyle Q & A with menswear mastermind Eunice Lee.
Hoyle: What draws you to menswear?
Lee: I love menswear because it’s all about lifestyle. I don’t have to re-invent the hem length to a pant every season. It’s more subtle. Our guy appreciates the feeling of a garment- the fit, quality, textures and even the smell.
Hoyle: How does New York influence your aesthetic?
Hoyle interviews Emil Corsillo of The Hill-Side
Photo Credit: The Hill-Side
Emil Corsillo values integrity. He values the honest way selvedge indicates fabric quality – he values consistency. Emil’s aesthetic approach to utility is seen in The Hill-Side ties, decorative yet made with utilitarian fabric. According to Emil, function should come before form, or at least have equal weight.
Hoyle: On handkerchiefs…
E. Corsillo: A worker never wore a tie to work, yet a handkerchief historically was carried both by gentlemen and working men. Whereas a tie has no real function a handkerchief is the opposite: it has many functions, the smaller ones look great in a suit jacket. (more…)
Who’s Going To Argue With Him?
Master Hatter Gary White makes hats for Hollywood’s heroes and villains. Recent work includes Revolutionary Road, a film that earned a costume design Academy Award nomination.
Mr. White has been working in menswear since the age of fifteen. He apprenticed for eleven years, and is the first to point out that one is “never through apprenticeship honey”. I focus on his iconic work for Robert De Niro’s Al Capone in The Untouchables and Harisson Ford’s Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.
Mr. White shares the story of Indy’s first hat:
White: “Debbie Landis was with Harrison Ford in London for Raiders of the Lost Arc. They went into a store and put a hat on his head. The brim width was too wide for his head, so they
took a pair of scissors and cut the brim. The hat was born. This happened at Herbert Johnson.”
Hoyle: “There seems to be a strong association between gangsters and hats.”
White: “John Gotti never wore a hat”
Hoye: “I guess gangsters can afford a nice hat.”
White: “I hope so. Either that or they would steal one.”
Hoyle: “How do you make a hat for a villain?”
White: “Dark and racy for a villain, with the exception of Al Capone . . . Prior to him becoming famous, he wore dark colors. When he became the head of the business family, he wore all light colors. Probably his favorite, and who’s going to argue with him?”
Hoyle: Hero or a villain, you can reach Mr. White for a custom hat via custom-hatter.com
Photo Credit: channel4.com