Images credit: nomdeguerre.net

The Nome de Guerre collective was founded with the idea that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. According to Nom de Guerre “collective consciousness . . .  is superior to that of the individual ego.” According to Hoyle, Nom de Guerre functions as a paragon of menswear style.

Hoyle: Your Lookbook images are amazing- is there anything you keep in mind when creating them?

N. D. G.: Each season we are very fortunate to work with a team that makes the vision possible. For Fall / Winter 2009, the idea was to create a feeling of being in a vast Arctic space and Erik Swain executed that idea perfectly. Daniel Peddle’s casting also furthered the idea, so that we had guys that could very legitimately be in that setting.

Hoyle: How did you find your store location? It has such a unique history.

N. D. G.: We found the store location through word of mouth; we like working that way and always try to remain open to synchronicity in both the everyday tasks as well as the bigger ideas that we execute.

Hoyle: Do you feel that Nom de Guerre runs differently than other design or fashion firms?

N. D. G.: Yes, the way that we work is very unusual. We work more nomadically and take full advantage of communication technology.  This sets us free from having an office and allows us to design the collection anywhere.

Hoyle: What is the ideal male uniform?

N. D. G.: It would really depend on the occasion, but for multi-function use, we think that it would be a very sturdy pair of trousers, a button-front shirt worn with a necktie, and a thick hoodie.

Hoyle: Can we give readers any news on what’s to come with Nom de Guerre?

N. D. G.: Spring / Summer 2010 is based on the Algerian war and is also influenced by film and literature of the period. This collection mixes civilian and military references to suggest the civilian involvement in the war itself, and additionally, resulting from the influence of ideas such as, montage of New Wave cinema; archival news reels; and specifically the films of Chris Marker.

Images credits: nomdeguerre.net ; movie credit: Chris Marker

Hoyle: Do you approach fashion photography any differently than your other portraits?

Rogac: Not really. I’m more interested in the person than the clothes. When I shoot fashion I work as if I’m shooting portraits.

Hoyle: Were you ever given any photography advice that resonated with you?

Rogac: Not personally, but I read a quote in a biography once that was something like, “you have to take the bad photos in order to take the good ones”. I think this is so true — when I shoot a roll that I’m not very happy with I try to learn from it to make future photo sessions better.

Hoyle: Was your recent shoot for City Mag any different than other shoots?

Rogac: It was a pretty standard shoot. I got to meet and photograph some really interesting people, and the vibe was quite melo and relaxed.

Hoyle: What would you like to see more of in fashion magazines in terms of imagery?

Rogac: That’s tough, fashion photography really has no limits and there are so many different imagery styles in mags right now. I really enjoy looking through magazines and being surprised.

Hoyle: In portraits, is it ever the case that your favorite image of a subject isn’t necessarily the most flattering image of the subject?

Rogac: I don’t think so. When I edit my portraits I try to choose shots where the subject looks the most like themselves, and these are usually the most flattering photos naturally.

Hoyle: For more of Jody Rogac’s work, go to jodyrogac.com

Images: Jody Rogac and Scott Sternberg respectively. All Images taken by and property of Jody Rogac.

Image credit: deskiraz.com

Greg Minnig and his business partner Jenn Dixon of Deth Killers have attracted the attention of magazines from Nylon to The New York Times. Deth Killers brand clothing have graced the bodies of Kate Moss, Jake Gyllenhaal, Mickey Rourke, and David Bowie. You can see the latest Deth Killers work here. This interview shows that often the tougher a guy looks…the more generous.

Hoyle: Were you given a lot of direction when asked to design for David Bowie?

Minnig: I don’t know, ask Jenn. I think he just liked our aesthetic and would  have probably liked whatever we made for him, but we certainly went  into it knowing the bar was about as high as it could get so we didn’t hold anything back….

Hoyle: Can one portray toughness through clothes?

Minnig: This is how I’d answer that question. Imagine you are  walking down a street and you see a guy or a bunch of guys who look  like they are just looking for someone to jump. I’m sure most people have had that experience. There are a million different variables  which can decide whether or not you will become a meat sandwich in this situation.

One thing that can protect you in this situation isn’t necessarily your clothes, but your style can certainly play a hand  in making you look like less of a target. That’s all around style, not just your clothes and haircut but the way you carry yourself, the way you walk, where you look when you walk, the expression on your face, etc. BUT I also believe that just the right clothes can make someone shift their attitude and the way they carry themselves, just by feeling really good in what you’re wearing. Looking really scary helps too, but I guess that’s a situation people in Brooklyn may find themselves in where it would benefit them to look and feel tough.

Hoyle: How would you like someone to feel when wearing Deth Killers clothing?

Minnig: Tough. And certainly lots of people will come up to you and ask you about your shirt. It always seems to happen, at least to us. And then we feel popular, like people like us. When they really just like our shirt.

Hoyle: What’s more fun, riding in the city, or riding in the country?

Minnig: Funny you should ask this question cause I find myself answering a  version of this question often. Riding in NYC is a very specific and challenging style of riding because of the traffic, the road surface and the police. The traffic is obviously very dense and “predictably unpredictable”. The road  surface is incredibly inconsistent, which forces us [the deth killers and motorcyclists in general] to memorize potholes and other various asphalt inconsistencies around the city. And the police really make the city a fun place to ride because there is essentially no way to get pulled over, provided you have the huevos to not stop for them. Their cars can’t fit through tight spaces like our bikes can so we almost always slip away easily.

Comparitively, while riding on freshly-paved country roads is also a bit of a sport in itself, it is a much more relaxing and fluid one, provided the road is free of debris. It’s more akin to riding at a track day, though there still is the concern of oncoming traffic. Track days and racing are the ideal as traffic is a non-issue, there  is little to collide with and there are no speed limits. And while crashes at the track tend to result in fewer injuries, they happen far more frequently at the track than on the street.

I guess it all adds up to riding everywhere has it’s pros and cons. Mostly I just like doing wheelies and bridges and parking lots are the best for doing those…

Hoyle: Who is Randolph M. Jones?

Minnig: We call him Randy and he is Jenn’s brother-in-law who owns a bike shop  near Baltimore. He builds race bikes and stunt bikes and and sponsors  a stunt team whose wheelies put jesus’s wheelies to shame.

Hoyle: Can you give According to Hoyle readers any special insight into what is coming down the road with your brand?

Minnig: We’re developing a video game based on some fictional and non-fictional aspects of our brand and lifestyle. I can’t give too much away here but basically it’s the whole reason we made DES KIRAZ, our latest line of t-shirts. Because we REALLY wanted to make a video game, but we don’t know how to make video games, we only know how to  make clothes, so we made the best game on a t-shirt we possibly could…

Hoyle interviews Roxana, the mastermind behind blog Nerd Boyfriend.

Hoyle: Do have a boyfriend and is he nerdy?

Roxana: He does fit into some of more flattering definitions of nerdy. He also goes by the name lonelysandwich, so there’s that.

Hoyle: Do you start with the photograph? How does that process work?

Roxana: I do start with the photograph, then I go through the inventory of my 200+ list of online stores and men’s lines to try to find possible matches.

Hoyle: How did you get interested in menswear?

Roxana: I guess it would have to be Jim Henson. His style reflects his humility and enthusiasm for his craft. Turtlenecks, cords, tweed, oxfords, genius. He made me realize that I admire the fashion sense of my heroes as much as their talent.

Hoyle: How would you describe your personal style?

Roxana: Thrift store optimistic.

Hoyle: Where do you find most of your inspiration?

Roxana: I have to give credit to men’s fashion blogs; selectism, a continuous lean, hyrcollective and kempt, the moment, mensrag. They keep me up to date and I really just match things up.

*Editor’s note: video courtesy of Roxana’s boyfriend Adam of Put this On and You Look Nice Today

Derrick R. Cruz of Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons offers Hoyle readers insight into the creative process behind Cruz’s hauntingly beautiful art. Mr. Cruz also offers sneak peak images from his “Theft of Light” Collection.

Hoyle: What’s your workshop like?

Cruz: Its in the L.E.S. of New York City. Its my escape. Its a place full of raw materials and tools for me to tinker with until I’m able to imbue objects with what’s on my mind. A constantly evolving disaster of paper, books, bones, wood, saws, dust and a broom.

Hoyle: In regards to your work, the prodigal aspect is evident. Would you identify yourself as a black sheep at all?

Cruz: Is “prodigal” evident? I feel like you’d have to know me a little better before you can say that. Order me a good glass of scotch and I’ll show you a realtime example of prodigious tendencies. The “black sheep” part I find unavoidable, its also a positive creative catalyst for me.

Hoyle: What’s your favorite object?

Cruz: An earth-clay figurine of a Taino Indian my father and I purchased near a river in Puerto Rico. Other than that, my vacuum tube stereo.

Hoyle: What would you like to find in a shipwreck?

Cruz: Bones and letters.

Hoyle: What was your favorite book growing up?

Cruz: Damian by Herman Hesse. Before that it was Junglebook and a little illustrated book of Hiawatha that came with vinyl 45.

Hoyle: In a previous interview you reference Broyard who describes a New York culture that supports black sheep. What would you say about the power of the underdog?

Cruz: Its not a dog, its a sheep. Not an underdog, but one that needs to find an alternate road to satisfaction. Its an illusory correlation often made between success or economic status and the mind of the creative outsider. Outside the pre-drawn circle one can sometimes see connections that are not evident from the inside. This is good fodder for my work.

Hoyle: Can we give our readers a glimpse of what they can expect to see from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons next?

Cruz: The new collections is titled “Theft of Light.” There’s a jackal running around in our midsts with the Sun in a bag.

Hoyle: More from Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons here

According to Hoyle Q & A with menswear mastermind Eunice Lee.

Hoyle:  What draws you to menswear?

Lee: I love menswear because it’s all about lifestyle.  I don’t have to re-invent the hem length to a pant every season. It’s more subtle.  Our guy appreciates the feeling of a garment- the fit, quality, textures and even the smell.

Hoyle: How does New York influence your aesthetic?

Lee: New York is influential at so many levels.  I reference anyone from my boyfriend to the guys at the shop, to friends to homeless guys on the Bowery.

Hoyle: If a man were stuck on an island with one outfit, what should that be?  (New York counts as an island)

Lee: A white tee shirt, a pair of cotton chinos and a good, worn-in sneaker…. If it were winter, I would definitely suggest a pea coat!

Hoyle: Has a movie ever inspired you to design menswear?

Lee: Absolutely. Any Robert Redford films (All the President’s Men).  The Outsiders. Risky Business.

Hoyle: How do you feel about bow ties?

Lee: I love them. They can be really great worn preppy and casually, or totally sexy with a tuxedo.

Hoyle: Denim, cord or khaki?

Lee: It’s all about the khaki right now.  Denim is just a classic (I love a man who wears his own denim down!)  I’m already getting really excited for the obligatory fall blast of corduroy, as well.

Hoyle: Do your designs have a military style influence?

Lee: Totally.  Maybe it’s because I’m female, but I think men in uniform are pretty hot.  There’s also a lot of functionality in military details that I study.  I also just love military colors.

Hoyle: Which UNIS menswear item would make the best gift?

Lee: The ULTIMATE gift this fall will be our peacoat.  This year’s version is an update on a classic. Most of my customers who have bought an outerwear piece by now know it’s an investment piece.  They just keep going and going. I like pieces to make a guy look and probably more importantly, FEEL handsome… and if you’ve got a sturdy, functional and sexy wardrobe going on, that’s half the battle!

Hoyle: See more Unis here

Photo Credit: The Hill-Side

Emil Corsillo values integrity. He values the honest way selvedge indicates fabric quality – he values consistency. Emil’s aesthetic approach to utility is seen in The Hill-Side ties, decorative yet made with utilitarian fabric. According to Emil, function should come before form, or at least have equal weight.

Hoyle: On handkerchiefs…

E. Corsillo: A worker never wore a tie to work, yet a handkerchief historically was carried both by gentlemen and working men. Whereas a tie has no real function a handkerchief is the opposite: it has many functions, the smaller ones look great in a suit jacket.

Our chambray fabrics are perfect. Really simple and understated, but they also suit the denim fetishist. It’s something that denim nerds like me can get really excited about.

Hoyle: & do you carry…

E. Corsillo: I have begun to. I used to carry a paisley bandanna, but not on a regular basis. I have grown to love the chambray ones we’ve made…I have been carrying the very first sample in my back pocket every day since I picked it up from the factory.

Hoyle: On the two inch tie width…

E. Corsillo: As a basic tie in our collection it will always be that shape… this square end tie, whether in a knit or silk or wool, has always been there, never the coolest tie but never disappearing. It has remained at roughly this width too, not getting wider or skinnier with changing trends. Whenever I have seen square or “Rooster” ties, it feels like a little more modest shape of a tie.

Hoyle: On the selvedge…

E. Corsillo: The selvedge at the tip of the tie is like a little bit of honest decoration. We’re using something that’s an inherent part of the fabric’s production process as a decorative element.

Hoyle: On Denim (The Hill-Side obtains their denim from Japan)…

E. Corsillo: In the 70s and 80s most American textile companies converted to wider but more efficient looms…. the Japanese lovers of denim started doing things like buying the old textile looms so they could make jeans the way they were made in the past. In some cases they’re making them even better…This is why our fabric must be sourced from Japan; it’s made with the care and passion of a real connoisseur, and in a lot of cases there’s nowhere else in the world to get it.

Hoyle: Visit The Hill-Side website here.

Mr. White has been working in menswear since the age of fifteen. He apprenticed for eleven years, and is the first to point out that one is “never through apprenticeship honey”. I focus on his iconic work for Robert  De Niro’s Al Capone in The Untouchables and Harisson Ford’s Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. 

Mr. White shares the story of Indy’s first hat:

White: “Debbie Landis was with Harrison Ford in London for Raiders of the Lost Arc. They went into a store and put a hat on his head. The brim width was too wide for his head, so they

took a pair of scissors and cut the brim. The hat was born. This happened at Herbert Johnson.”

Hoyle: “There seems to be a strong association between gangsters and hats.”

White: “John Gotti never wore a hat”

Hoye: “I guess gangsters can afford a nice hat.”

White: “I hope so. Either that or they would steal one.”

Hoyle: “How do you make a hat for a villain?”

White: “Dark and racy for a villain, with the exception of Al Capone . . . Prior to him becoming famous, he wore dark colors. When he became the head of the business family, he wore all light colors. Probably his favorite, and who’s going to argue with him?”

Hoyle: Hero or a villain, you can reach Mr. White for a custom hat via custom-hatter.com

Photo Credit: channel4.com