Ne Pas Laver ?!
Q & A with Nom de Guerre
Images credit: nomdeguerre.net
The Nome de Guerre collective was founded with the idea that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. According to Nom de Guerre “collective consciousness . . . is superior to that of the individual ego.” According to Hoyle, Nom de Guerre functions as a paragon of menswear style.
Hoyle: Your Lookbook images are amazing- is there anything you keep in mind when creating them?
N. D. G.: Each season we are very fortunate to work with a team that makes the vision possible. For Fall / Winter 2009, the idea was to create a feeling of being in a vast Arctic space and Erik Swain executed that idea perfectly. Daniel Peddle’s casting also furthered the idea, so that we had guys that could very legitimately be in that setting.
Hoyle: How did you find your store location? It has such a unique history.
N. D. G.: We found the store location through word of mouth; we like working that way and always try to remain open to synchronicity in both the everyday tasks as well as the bigger ideas that we execute.
Hoyle: Do you feel that Nom de Guerre runs differently than other design or fashion firms?
N. D. G.: Yes, the way that we work is very unusual. We work more nomadically and take full advantage of communication technology. This sets us free from having an office and allows us to design the collection anywhere.
Hoyle: What is the ideal male uniform?
N. D. G.: It would really depend on the occasion, but for multi-function use, we think that it would be a very sturdy pair of trousers, a button-front shirt worn with a necktie, and a thick hoodie.
Hoyle: Can we give readers any news on what’s to come with Nom de Guerre?
N. D. G.: Spring / Summer 2010 is based on the Algerian war and is also influenced by film and literature of the period. This collection mixes civilian and military references to suggest the civilian involvement in the war itself, and additionally, resulting from the influence of ideas such as, montage of New Wave cinema; archival news reels; and specifically the films of Chris Marker.
Images credits: nomdeguerre.net ; movie credit: Chris Marker
Writer: HoyleTie Club
Image credit: Viktor & Rolf via hypebeast.com
Over the years ties have often been used to represent group membership (e.g. school, club, military). The first “tie club” started in 1880 when Oxford oarsmen took the college colored ribbons from their straw boaters and wore them as neckties. A proper set of ties in the same colors followed shortly thereafter.
Fact credit: Wikipedia
Writer: HoyleMr. Lipton’s Polka Dots
Image Credit: Alexander Olch via openingceremony.us
Originally created as a tribute to the sun God – the polka dot is the oldest menswear print design. Sir Thomas Lipton designed and wore a navy bow tie with white polka dots, bringing the polka dot from womenswear into modern menswear. Having sailed from his native Glasgow to the U.S. as a cabin boy, this same Mr. Lipton is known for his expert yachting skills. Nicknamed the “best of all losers,” Mr. Lipton “was the most persistent challenger in the history of the America’s Cup.” A self made man, Mr. Lipton made his fortune creating Lipton Tea.
Fact credit: Dressing The Man, Alan Flusser, p. 158; WIkipedia
Writer: Hoyle
Fleas You Want
Image Credit: acontinuouslean.com
There’s no better place to be than the Pop-Up Flea in NYC. Created by Michael Williams and Randy Goldberg, this is the second Pop-Up Flea. Hickoree’s Hard Goods is debuting some items that haven’t made it to their site yet.
Openhouse Gallery: 201 Mulberry Street (btw Spring & Kenmare)
Friday November 20th: 3pm – 9pm
Saturday the 21st: 11am – 7pm
Sunday the 22nd: 11am – 6pm
This Billy Kirk video will get you pumped about the Pop-Up.
Video credit: billykirkcom.blogspot.com/
Writer: HoyleDrinkin’ and Dronin’
Brandon of Drinkin’ And Dronin’ was recently featured in both the Sartorialist and GQ (congratulations Brandon!).
Brandon gives some rare insight into on what it’s like being photographed by the great Scott Schuman:
“I’ve never done much of a shoot like that before, he lets you move along as you’d like with brief instructions. He’s soft spoken, but definitely knows what he’s looking for and what looks best.”
“From the movements to the background looks, it’s all well constructed. I didn’t know him before save seeing him in the store (Billy Reid) for a brief moment. He was a breeze to work with, and it shows in his final product.”
Image Credit: Sartorialist.com
For more Drinkin’ And Dronin’ visit Brandon’s site.
Jody Rogac Through Her Own Lense
Brooklyn based photographer Jody Rogac takes portraits that have a cool yet regal feeling. Recently for City Mag, Jody photographed American menswear greats including Scott Sternberg, Robert Geller, and Patrick Ervell.
Hoyle: Do you approach fashion photography any differently than your other portraits?
Rogac: Not really. I’m more interested in the person than the clothes. When I shoot fashion I work as if I’m shooting portraits.
Hoyle: Were you ever given any photography advice that resonated with you?
Rogac: Not personally, but I read a quote in a biography once that was something like, “you have to take the bad photos in order to take the good ones”. I think this is so true — when I shoot a roll that I’m not very happy with I try to learn from it to make future photo sessions better.
Hoyle: Was your recent shoot for City Mag any different than other shoots?
Rogac: It was a pretty standard shoot. I got to meet and photograph some really interesting people, and the vibe was quite melo and relaxed.
Hoyle: What would you like to see more of in fashion magazines in terms of imagery?
Rogac: That’s tough, fashion photography really has no limits and there are so many different imagery styles in mags right now. I really enjoy looking through magazines and being surprised.
Hoyle: In portraits, is it ever the case that your favorite image of a subject isn’t necessarily the most flattering image of the subject?
Rogac: I don’t think so. When I edit my portraits I try to choose shots where the subject looks the most like themselves, and these are usually the most flattering photos naturally.
Hoyle: For more of Jody Rogac’s work, go to jodyrogac.com
Images: Jody Rogac and Scott Sternberg respectively. All Images taken by and property of Jody Rogac.
Hip to be Square
The pocket square.
1. Angle your pocket square up toward your left shoulder, it is more flattering that way as it accentuates the V shape of your body.
2. Regardless how long it took you to do a perfect fold, whether it be the four-point, the triangle, the square or the puff, your pocket square should give the illusion that it was thrust haphazardly into your pocket. (Even though there was nothing haphazard about it).
Fact credit: The Suit, Nicholas Antongiavanni, p 157.
Image credit: usonline.apc.fr
Writer: HoyleMohawks Through the Ages
Mohawks are named after the people of the Mohawk nation, who originally inhabited the Mohawk Valley in Upstate NY, Southern Quebec and Eastern Ontario. The oldest mohawk ever documented came from Dublin, Ireland- worn by a man 2000 years ago. More recently, mohawks are strongly associated with 1980s punk style.
Fact Credit: Wikipedia
Writer: Hoyle